Teachings from a pearl sommelier on how to distinguish an Akoya pearl

Teachings from a pearl sommelier on how to distinguish an Akoya pearl

Pearls are precious gemstones naturally crafted from shelled mollusks, but unlike diamonds, there currently exists no absolute grading standard. Here one will acquire thorough knowledge on the allure of an Akoya pearl and the proper way to choose one as explained by a pearl sommelier.

 

POINT1：Luster

The luster of a pearl refers to its radiance. A pearl is formed within an oyster when nacre coats the nucleus (the object at the core of a pearl; Tategami uses fresh water bivalve shells collected from America’s Mississippi River, which are finely grinded and shaped into a sphere) with many layers. Regarding the consistency of the nacre, luster quality improves the smoother the surface, as does the value. A pearl of good luster can be distinguished by the reflection produced as one gazes into the pearl. It is a sign of high quality luster when one’s face can be seen reflecting with the clearness of a mirror. Conversely, seeing a blurry reflection of one’s face is a sign of a pearl of poor luster.

 

POINT2：Layer Thickness

Layer thickness is defined as the thickness of nacre layering the nucleus, ranging anywhere from one thousand to two thousand layers. Those with a thick coating of mother-of-pearl (another term for nacre) are of superior quality and will emit extraordinary brilliance. The surface coating of nacre can begin to peel from prolonged use or external factors such as perspiration (which can be prevented with regular maintenance), and pearls with fewer layers peel more easily and fade more quickly. Of the five pearl qualities, the layer thickness is the most important. Even if the other qualities are magnificent, without quality layer thickness, a pearl’s value will not increase.

 

POINT3：Surface Quality

As for surface quality, it is the natural texture formed from the secretion and shaping of nacre by the oyster which cannot be artificially manipulated. Therefore, an indicator of an authentic pearl can be its natural imperfections. Of course a pearl with minimal imperfections will be valued higher, but compared to the luster and layer thickness, it is nothing to be overly concerned about.

 

POINT4： Shape

The shape of a pearl is classified broadly into four types: round, semi-round, baroque, and semi-baroque. Fundamentally, value will increase based on spherical perfection and the extent of its size. Yet pearls are still different from other gemstones in that they cannot be cut. For drop shaped (tear drop) and the snowman shaped twin pearls especially, nature has sculpted each pearl to be the only one of its kind, which is the true appeal of pearls.

 

POINT5：Color

The color of a pearl differs depending on the type of oyster that produces it, classified as pink, white, cream, gold, blue, silver, black, and green. Generally, for Akoya pearls, pink is one of the more notable colors. However, the appropriate choice of color is dependent on such aspects as age, skin tone, or occasion. While pink suits young individuals well, blue pearls are more fitting for black clothes when in mourning. It is important to align one’s choice with taste or intended use.